"Koefoed said that she has done everything backward and nothing by the book. The eggs came first: she raised them for her family on their 55-acre farm beginning in 2005 and sold some in the neighborhood. “Eventually it sort of dawned on me: Wow, this might be a nice little business.” She left her job at Havens Wine Cellars to farm full time, but things kicked in when a friend who was a sous chef at Chez Panisse took Koefoed’s eggs to work. The vibrant yolks and clean, grass-fed flavor won over the kitchen. Today the restaurant buys up to 100 dozen a week.
Then came the chickens. Alice Waters and one of her head chefs called a year into their relationship to ask Koefoed if she would raise birds for meat. “I said, ‘Nooooo!’ ” she recalled. “Then I hung up the phone and said: ‘Ugh! Of all the stupid things you have said — in your life — that may be the stupidest thing.’ ” She called back and told them she’d do it. “I was like: ‘No problem! Total breeze!’ and then the next day I ran down to the library and bookstore and bought every book I could find on pasture-raised meat birds and figured it out.”
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